Games Workshop Citadel Base: Averland Sunset

Product Information

Most P3 Paints do not match closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html

In 6th edition these guys had their own codex and a half decent formation in it, so I have a buttload of Tempestus Scions, or as I still call them, Stormtroopers. Their boots, pouches, straps, weapon casings, metallics, and lenses are all the same as I detailed in the above Valhallan infantry and tank guides. The pants were painted the same as the coats of the Valhallan infantry, as that gives them a cleaner look and I figure these guys would get to go to the Imperial laundromat. All that’s left is their armor! Infantry Now we arrive at the crucial “grime up” step that’s so necessary for creating that grimdarky finish on the miniature. This stage takes all the effort out of washing and/or shading your models. and yes, it will look much worse here before it looks better. My headcanon is that the Rainbow Warriors organize themselves into 7 Battleline companies and 7 Reserve companies, each consisting of 7 squads named after the ROYGBIV colors of the rainbow. This is known as the Double Rainbow. The companies do not act as single entities, instead their squads are parceled out to the various strike forces of the Rainbow Warriors. Highlight the pants, sleeves and bedrolls with Zandri Dust, followed by a smaller highlight of Ushabti Bone (Optional: Add a final highlight of Screaming Skull). The Colour Forge is a British company founded in 2020, known for its spray paints, MDF terrains, neodymium magnets and basing materials. Their spray paint range includes a matt varnish, a MDF sealer, and 23 colours all matched to the Citadel Colour range. The paints come in larger 500ml cans, which hold 100 ml more paint than the standard 400 ml size of similar products. Colour Forge spray paints colour match testedFor models not smart enough to wear a helmet, I usually glue a spare one to their belt, or if that’s not really possible, I do the striping on one of their kneepads instead. Dreads get the striping on the top of their bodies.

Focus this on all but the darkest, most recessed areas of the face. If you’re using an airbrush, try and ensure you spray the face from above, a similar angle to the photo below. http://www.wargamesfoundry.com - also do a range of similar to Citadel paints, will update when can get chance. The Imperial Guard feature in a ton of 40k literature, and there are a lot of really great stories about them. So we’re gonna talk about our favorites here. Once you have covered the entire figure, give it a few moments to ensure the paint is fully dry before moving on to the next stage. How to Paint Imperial Fists Step 2 – First Highlight Likewise, the officer on the right uses the standard color palette without deviation. Just a touch or two of red is all you need to add a little punch to a model.

Finally, I do a thin top edge and reflex highlights with Dorn Yellow. If I ever mess up, and I do, a lot, a little Reikland should fix it up. In our How to Paint Everything series, we take a look at how to paint different models, armies, and materials, and different approaches to painting them. In this article, Charlie from the Beard Bunker blog teams up with Rob ‘TheChirurgeon’ Jones to go through the basics of painting freehand designs on your minis. Freehand like a boss (or at least like middle management) Edition Noise Marines were a lot less uniform in color, using mostly dark armor with lots of bright pink, blue, and yellow trim to go with the metal models that came out about 6 months after Codex: Chaos released. They’re pretty wild models on the whole, and unlike nearly anything else in the Chaos range. The other important part with Iron Warriors is that they must be miserable. They have to be down in filthy, broken mud and toxic landscapes and the basing is essential to that. And toxic basing is easy and fun to do, you can really go wild with it. Then I began the weathering. I recess shaded the entire model with agrax earthshade, then drybrushed the entire model with a bone color, avoiding the grey areas. You can highlight colors with a bone highlight, but it’s difficult for the white.

A large majority of my life has been consumed by Marvel and its properties, including their various plastic forms. I’ve worked on Marvel projects, collected Marvel toys, played Marvel games, and watched Marvel comics in some form for most of my life. As soon as MCP came out I bought the Core set and expansions and then… it sat there on my shelf! I was in the middle of my big Crimson Fists project of the last two years and didn’t take a break for my beloved Marvel Heroes. But I kept buying the expansions! And I even played some games! But the only model I ended up painting was Venom. Above: a sepia glaze is used to darken the whole design down but keep it tied together in preparation for highlighting.Leather is painted with Scorched Brown, then highlighted with Bleached Bone blended with the base color If I was going to give these dudes berets they would be painted in the same reds I used for the red badges and so on further up the guide. Vehicles were painted the same as the rest. Author’s Note: I painted my Vostroyans 12 years ago and some things have changed. More spray paint colors are available but older Citadel Colors like Rotting Flesh paint are no more. You can substitute with Putrid Green from Coat D’Arms or a slightly greener paint in the form of Ogryn Camo. You’ll be left with a fully shaded model at the end but unlike with acrylic washes, you’ll have all those bright armour areas super bright and vibrant again. How to Paint Imperial Fists Step 21 – Matte Varnish