DONE. Really. That’s it. The basing I’ll have to cover another day, but it’s essentially Vallejo Earth Texture sprayed with a green/brown, then had a few pigments mashed on top of it before a heavy coat of pigment fixer. Very very easy and effective basing. The grass tufts are Mininatur Tufts of Desert. I will be doing another article on the Kruleboyz themselves at a later date, but if you’d like to see full video tutorials on the Kruleboyz and more, you can find them on my Patreon. The hides were done in the same way as the Hobgrotz, only with a traditional brush instead of an airbrush. The shoulder and leg armor is also done the same way as the Hobgrot armor. The metallic faces are done with Contrast paints over metallic. Gore-grunta Fur for copper, Nazdrag Yellow for gold, and Skeleton Horde for a sort of dirty silver. The large face was Apothecary White over metallic, with bright white metallic (Scale 75 Speed Metal/White Alchemy) drybrushed over it. Overall I’m happy. They are a little messier than my normal minis mostly because I was pushing to get them done. However even if I slow down it won’t take too long and is easily replicated! As I neglected to take step by step photos along the way, here are the methods/recipes I used to paint the Hobgrots alongside a couple of screenshots!

Paint Citadel Coelia Greenshade into the recesses of the flesh and Citadel Contrast Basilicanum Grey into the recesses of the cloth and you’re done. Red scales could replicate red skin scheme, but using a dark nuln oil shade and avoiding the brightest highlighs SKIN a typical transition from Khorne Red to Squig Orange would make the Steg look like a Squig, which is cool but I don't know if it is what I want. For a more cohesive feel, I also “retrofitted” the shoulder-mounted Scatter Lasers with those that come with War Walkers and Guardian weapon platforms. I feel that one of the best ideas was to put the model on the larger Imperial Knight size oval base, which compliments the Wraithknight’s silhouette much better.

#074463 Color Name(s)

A more muted look could be achieved with Doombull Brown->Brown shade->Tuskgor Fur-> Caidian/Kislev highlights -> Bloodletter but I'm afraid it will look too dark and leatherish. Paint mouth, elbows, and knees with thinned Army Painter Purple tone. I did this to give the model some definition and to add a little color into the scheme where As I mentioned above, my Krulboyz hero scheme is based on the Blue-Tongued skink. Initially I was going to carry the blue spot color motif forward onto the heroes, but ultimately decided that that didn’t make as much narrative sense. The Hobgrots are subservient to the larger Kruleboyz. Instead, I decided to carry the Hobgrotz skin forward as the leather worn by the hero. It’s a vicious society and any Hobgrot that steps out of line is turned into hides. The Stegadon Scale Green paint from Citadel Colours is a deep, earthy shade of green that evokes the essence of the natural world.

For 'purplish' scales I could use Dark Reaper->Violet/Crimson-> not sure if I would Highlight with Warpfiend/Slaanesh or Calgar/Fenrisian Rust up metal weapons and banners with Citadel Technical Typhus Corrosion and stab it with VMC Orange-Red. I want the colour to be distinct, but somewhat 'muted' and natural. For both of them I want the scales to be darker in value and with less chroma (so darker and not-as-blue or not-as-red as the rest of the skin). Tyranids – A monstrous, alien race in the Warhammer 40K universe, and their color scheme regularly features vibrant greens and blues. Stegadon Scale Green would be a great choice for painting the armor and other details on Tyranid miniatures, helping to bring out the alien, otherworldly nature of the Tyranids. And finally edge highlighted very sparingly with (again the name has worn off, but I think its aluminum.)

HSL Colors

After laying down the metallics the model was given an overall layer with a 50/50 mix of Blood Angels Red Contrast Paint and Contrast Medium. Then it was shaded with Flesh Tearers Red Contrast Paint while the deepest shadows were painted with Sigvald Burgundy Contrast Paint. I remember I used to loathe the Wraithknight model when it was released. Compared to the Wraithknight and Revenant Titan, to me, it felt very cluttered with details, antennas and oval shapes. I didn’t like the bulky legs and chest, and I also didn’t like the Spiritseer inspired head. I really wanted to like the modelbecause the concept of two pilots, one sibling alive and one dead, is so inventive. But I just couldn’t. You can use Stegadon Scale Green for any army you prefer, but if you don’t know where to start, here are a few suggestions: The scheme gets its depth from a metallic Gold pre-shade that is applied before the Clear Red. The Clear Red then gives that high gloss ‘candy’ finish to the paint scheme. One of the advantages of doing this scheme is that the finish is so glossy that you really don’t need to edge highlight or shade/pin wash the finish. That being said, one of the disadvantages is that you do need to apply a couple of coats when basecoating the other elements of the model as the adhesion to the Clear Red is not great. I finish the scheme with a Satin Varnish to maintain that shiny finish but also protect the candy coat. I do hope you give this scheme a try, as it is a lot of fun and very rewarding!

Highlight Flesh with Citadel Karak Stone, the red areas with VGC Sun Yellow and the off-white areas with white. Paint the ropes with Citadel Contrast Flesh-Tearers Red and any Wood or other straps in Citadel Contrast Wyldwood.The only time I feel alive is when I'm painting. Vincent Van Gogh

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