Super Glasses Case for Children "Stitch with Glasses" with Metal Hinge

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Notch and trim the fabric on the seam allowance for easier turning, then turn right side out. Press and close the opening in the lining.

You’re nearly there. It just remains to neatly close the opening on the lining seam with your machine or hand stitch it closed using a ladder stitching or a slip stitching STEP 11: Finish the sunglasses case

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If you'll use fusible foam it's good to trim a quarter of an inch around the piece to reduce bulk in the seam allowance. (image #2 above) Don't trim the piece if you use a non-fusible stabilizer. Step 3 - Fuse Stabilizer To Fabric Now's the perfect time to add that magnetic snap. If you're new to magnetic snaps, you'll be delighted when you see how easy these are! See my easy tutorial for how to add magnetic snaps. Magnetic Snap Placement I wanted my eyeglasses pouch to be generously sized, so it will fit any size eyeglasses and especially, will be large enough for ANY size sunglasses. And I wanted it to have a decently stable outer layer for protection. And I wanted it not flat. Also, it had to be pretty! What do you say, have I succeeded? If this is a concern you can solve it by sewing a tiny piece of Velcro to the inside of the top of the sunglasses case on either side. An alternative solution is to sew a button, centrally place, on the outside of the front of the case – that’s the bit with the angled side, near the top. Take a piece of colored twine or braid and make a loop that you place inside the seam so that when you sew the top piece together it will turn outwards when you turn the fabric. Bring the loop down to hook over the button.

LINING: For the lining try to choose a thin polar fleece, or fabric with a brushed finish. Even a soft cotton will work. This just give some padding to protect the lenses. Make sure the colors for the outer and lining work well together. Now take the two compound pieces and place them right sides together. Make sure to align the seams perfectly, especially the ones where the lining fabric and the main fabric meet , and on darts. Trim the quilt-as-you-go panels to the required size using a quilters ruler, cutting mat and rotary cutter. If you are using a patchwork fabric now is the time to sew your patchwork pieces together (see above). I always start with a larger piece of batting than required in the pattern.To make it easier, I first trace the pattern piece on the foam, then flip it and trace the other half - see image #1 above. Cut out using scissors. Cut out the darts too. To do that before cutting this place your fabric right side to right side, so the wrong side of the lining is facing you. Now cut the angle, or lip as it’s known and pin along that angled edge.

Cut the pattern pieces for the outer casing, the lining and the fusible interfacing – you’ll need one of each. As you’ll see on the eyeglasses case pattern piece one side is side is angled slightly. So you’ll need to cut the lining mirrored. What I also love about this diy glasses case is the size. So handy - it's something that will store not just the regular glasses but also your big sunglasses, or even a smartphone! Throw it into your purse and carry anywhere with you! Below you will find my step by step DIY sunglasses case written tutorial with VIDEO instructions for all the visual learners. Don't want to use fusible foam? You can use alternatives like are a layer of SF101 plus Decovil Light or high-loft fusible fleece - make sure to visit this interfacing guide for beginners - it will make your (interfacing-related) sewing life so much easier! And your bags and pouches prettier. Finished Size of This Diy Glasses Case The glasses do fit well inside, and personally I think the eyeglasses case looks sleeker and more sophisticated without closings.

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First of all, let’s start by working out the finished measurements of your sunglasses case. Your finished case needs to be long enough and wide enough for your glasses. Now take that long straight seam that meets the angled seam and pin down the lining and outer for just one inch, then stitch with a 1/4 inch seam allowance and trim. This creates the convenient spot on the finished item where you can reach in to get your eyeglasses out of the DIY eyeglass case.

You need less than one fat quarter of fabric altogether - use matching or contrasting fabric scraps! I used three different prints from the Lucy June collection designed by Lila Tueller for Riley Blake Designs (it's gorgeous!) and added one single piece of hardware - a magnetic snap. Super happy about how it turned out! Supplies Place your next piece of quilting fabric wrong side facing you, and raw edge aligning an existing raw edge, stitch and then open out. If you’re workings with some lightweight fabrics, you’ll need to add a little structure to your main fabric. Place the main fabric on top of the bumpy side of the interfacing and press with an iron from both sides. TIP: If you want to make a smaller case use ½ inch (1.3cm) and you’ll need to trim it. Trim the seam allowance so its neat, grading it, which means leaving the outer fabric slightly wider than the lining. This allows for a neat finish. STEP 4: Press Trim and notch the rounded edge for easier turning, being careful to not snip into the stitching lines. NOTE: do not trim the (unfinished) straight edge.

Place the outer fabric on top of the lining fabric right sides facing. Stitch the fabric pieces together along the whole length of the angled side 1/4″ (6mm) from the edge. Pin in place or use sewing clips to prevent shifting, then sew around using a ¼" seam allowance, leaving a hole in the lining for turning. Also, it's good to taper the lining by a quarter of an inch. I'll explain it in a bit: OR do you want a printable copy of the WHOLE tutorial? Scroll to the bottom of this tutorial for more details!